Amaravati, Jul 21 – The monsoon season in Andhra Pradesh brings a culinary highlight with the arrival of Pulasa, a small fish that migrates upstream from the Bay of Bengal into the Godavari river’s distributaries to spawn. However, this prized delicacy has become increasingly rare.

Known as Hilsa Ilisha in English, Pulasa is a sought-after fish that commands high prices, especially during its brief availability. The spicy curry made from Pulasa is traditionally offered to politicians, bureaucrats, and celebrities as a gesture of goodwill. B Gopal Rao, a resident of Dowleswaram in East Godavari district, reminisced about enjoying Pulasa curry more frequently in his childhood, highlighting its declining availability.

The popularity of Pulasa is reflected in the Telugu saying, “pustelu ammiaina pulasa tinali,” meaning one should be willing to sell their ‘mangalsutra’ to enjoy Pulasa. S Angeli, the additional director of the Fisheries Department, noted that the high demand and overfishing of Pulasa threaten its population, as it cannot be bred through aquaculture like other fish.

Historically abundant in the 1990s, hilsa catches have significantly decreased in rivers while increasing in the sea. According to a study published in Elsevier, factors such as reduced water discharge from upstream rivers, heavy siltation, juvenile exploitation, disrupted migration routes, and overfishing contribute to the decline of hilsa in riverine environments.

Angeli emphasized the need for a strict ban on catching juvenile Pulasa to protect the species. She advocated for focused research on hilsa spawning grounds in the Godavari River to establish protected areas. Additionally, she proposed implementing the polluter pays principle (PPP) and setting up a floating laboratory on the Godavari River as part of conservation efforts.

Pulasa fish migrate into the Godavari during the flood season, swimming upstream to lay eggs between June and August before returning to the sea around October. Angeli explained that Pulasa undergoes a transformation in taste and color when entering the river’s freshwater. The fish found in the delta, particularly where fresh and saltwater mix near Narsapuram in West Godavari district, are noted for their exceptional flavor.

Fisherfolk classify female Pulasa as ‘chenal’ and male as ‘goddu,’ with the female being more prized for its richer taste. Despite having many bones, Pulasa is traditionally prepared in clay pots over firewood, and its flavor improves after resting for several hours. Angeli noted that Pulasa caught near Yanam and Kotipalli is less expensive, while those from Kapileswarapuram and Alamuru are pricier. The most expensive Pulasa comes from Dowleswaram and Pottilanka due to its rich flavor.

The cost of authentic Pulasa can reach up to Rs 10,000 for a maximum weight of 1 kg, with the best catches occurring between Bobbarlanka and Dowleswaram. Gopal Rao shared that the renowned Pulasa curry is made with a blend of ingredients, including ‘avakaya’ (mango) pickle oil and ladies’ fingers, and is traditionally savored the day after preparation.

A 2018 Elsevier paper highlighted that hilsa is widely distributed in the North Indian Ocean, particularly in the Bay of Bengal, with Bangladesh being the largest contributor to hilsa catches. The fish is also significant in West Bengal’s cuisine, prompting imports from Bangladesh to meet local demand. Instances of ‘hilsa diplomacy’ have seen Bangladesh gifting hilsa to India during festivals like Durga Puja.

In addition to its culinary appeal, Pulasa is rich in nutrition, containing essential fatty acids, lipids, minerals, and amino acids, making it a valuable addition to the diet.